The 14 biggest trends for next season to know now.
1.
Stripes strike back, hair is shorn and Frankenstein's monster is shaping shoulders:
welcome to spring/summer 2017.
Kate Finnigan and Emily Cronin guide you through the trends set to
take over your wardrobe
next season, fresh from the New York, London,
Milan and Paris shows.
2.
Stripes
Labels like Missoni and Paul Smith have stripes sewn into their DNA,
but lines of every shade and thickness were also drawn elsewhere. At
Mulberry, school-blazer stripes were made into – yes – blazers and
matching Bermuda shorts. Try to get those past the headmaster. At
Burberry were silky pyjama stripes; Pringle of Scotland (above) went
multicolour; and traditional blue and white striped men’s shirts came in
many variations, courtesy of Ports 1961, Stella McCartney and Sacai.
3.
The new work trouser
A few short-memoried designers tried to convince us we’re ready for
the return of the ’90s hipster trouser (we’re not), but others were
kinder to women’s bodies. A pleasing new trouser shape was roomy,
high-waisted and either cuffed, elasticated or hemmed at the bottom.
It’s the sort of thing that husbands and sons may question – but,
please, just carry on regardless. Excellent examples were at Gucci
(above), Chloé, Lemaire, Stella McCartney, Armani and Céline.
4.
The big white dress
The opposite of the little black dress is spring 2017’s BWD. Bold
rather than romantic, whimsical or bridal, it’s mid-length, long or
big-sleeved, and rounded at the shoulder. At Loewe it was gathered at
the hem, at Stella McCartney it had a soft corset and at Céline it came
with a high neck and tie waist (above). Simone Rocha’s were like
oversized Communion dresses – one in broderie anglaise with puffed
sleeves. And a refined version opened the show at Daks.
5.
The big earrings
The statement earring is going nowhere. (It can’t – it’s too heavy.)
Whether you wear it singly – as at Mary Katrantzou, Stella Jean or JW
Anderson – or in the traditional double, yes-I-have-two-ears style (see
Dolce & Gabbana, above), you need your piercings. At Balenciaga,
just to be different, they had the same style of earring in two
different sizes.
6.
Historic glamour
The past is a foreign country and designers keep visiting. Burberry
(above) harked back to the Elizabethans with a show inspired by Virginia
Woolf’s Orlando. Advocating ruff-style frilly collars for all, it was a
fitting introduction to mens- and womenswear on the catwalk at the same
time. JW Anderson had Henry VIII- style quilted jackets, while the
Victorian, Edwardian and belle époque eras chimed for Erdem, Simone
Rocha, Dries Van Noten and French new kid on the block Jacquemus.
7.
The oversized jacket
What to wear with your new roomy trouser? The new roomy jacket, of
course. At Lemaire, Céline and Balenciaga (above), tailored blazers came
oversized with a 1980s feel – big on the shoulders, narrower in the
body. Think of it as the Frankenstein’s monster fit. Honestly, it will
grow on you.
8.
Heels vs flats
It’s no longer a question of either/or. Designers seem to have
cottoned on to the fact that – gasp – women enjoy wearing flats most of
the time but will sometimes endure a higher heel, particularly if it’s
of a sturdy variety. Saint Laurent (right) had killer 1980s-style
stilettos with wowzer YSL logos, but there were also shiny perforated
lace-ups and fur-lined boating booties. Odd, but we enjoyed the
juxtaposition, Monsieur Vaccarello.
9.
Hair in brief
For those brave enough, the new haircut is short, but not that
short. The buzzcut that has been trendy for the past two seasons has
grown into a softer crop – as seen on British model Ruth Bell (right)
when she opened at Dior. At Balenciaga, Sunniva Vaatevik sported a
hacked-off bob; while off the catwalk, Style.com’s Yasmin Sewell had a
new short ’do for shows.
10.
’70s colours
The richest outfit hues came straight out of the ’70s. Stylist Ada
Kokosar proves maroon, chestnut and mustard are the colours you’ll want
to wear.
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